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Come with me to Peru...

A beautiful sunset in Manu.

Awesome cock-of-the-rock in the reserve.

The beginning of our adventure took us from Minneapolis to Atlanta, where we met up with a good friend of mine, ilyat (EK). We had decided to travel together and were able to even finagle the same flight into Lima, which was awesome. We arrived to Lima, the city of Kings (a bit of a joke as it was built in a really miserable area on the pointed, ironic advice of native 'advisors' to the Spanish. Lima is quite an intense city and travelers are advised not to leave the touristy Miraflores district during their stay. Of course, we started our trip leaving that area and venturing into the inner city. Our taxi driver enlightened us about the problems the city is having with gangs, drug trafficking, and corruption. Our hotel was complete with steel bars and security. The most noticeable thing about Lima was the crazy driving - people seemed literally kamikaze, speeding, weaving and honking up a storm. Amazingly, though we watched cars constantly come within centimeters of each other, we didn't see a single car accident our entire time in Peru.

Early in the morning we left Lima behind and took a short flight to Cuzco, the scenery changing from metropolis to mountains as we coasted over the Andes.

Even the pigeons are somehow more artistic in Cuzco.

Beautiful textiles all over at the street vendors.

Our first day in Cuzco, we had a nice tour of the city including some of its beautiful churches which were Spanish architecture built upon Inca ruins. The churches themselves were an interesting mix of cultures - I think my favorite thing there was a giant monumental canvas painting of the last supper where Jesus was eating a guinea pig. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take pictures in the Cathedrals.

Qoricancha, the Sun Temple.

Jaguar of the magical whiskers. (Inca replica golden tablet)

A beautiful inca rendition of the milky way in the southern sky - with the Llama's eyes (part of the southern cross), the fox, serpent, and many others.

Amazing craftsmanship of the Inca walls.

Floating angel heads!

Saqsayhuaman Inca Complex - it was really a treat to visit a lot of these historical places. I've studied them for years and to be there, knowing their incredible background and battles that took place there was amazing.

The stonework was really incredible - the sheer size of the stones is amazing, and how far they were moved (and accurately they were cut to interlock without mortar).

Our guide for the day.

Strolling across the fields where Spanish cavalry assaulted the Incas fortressed at the temple, attempting to keep them at bay.

After Saqsaywaman, we toured Tambo Machay, Qenqo and Puca-Pucara (which was a really interesting cave once used for mummification rituals).

After our tour, we found a great place to eat dinner in Cuzco that had a buffet of local food including the national specialties - alpaca steak and guinea pig (cuy). They were delicious, along with all the fresh fruits, vegetables, fried yucca, many types of corn, and much more. We were treated to many acts of native dancing, including these masked 'demon' dancers.

The jaguar dancer and black fox both came over to purr-trill at me and give me a kiss. The masks were really fantastic!

A native pan flute band, chakana. We ended up picking up one of their CDs, their native fusion music was really fun.

The next morning we were up really early for the start of our Rainforest adventure - beginning with a harrowing ride through the Andes on a tiny, one lane dirt road carved across the mountains. It's up there on the 'world's most dangerous roads' list and I can safely say I've never been on a ride anything like it. There were times when one wheel of the bus was teetering off the edge of the road with a sheer drop thousands of feet down on one side.

At one point our bus got stuck in the mud and we spent a bit over an hour repairing the road enough to get it out and back on our way, despite a flat tire that had probably been there for some time.

On this tiny road, you would often run into semis coming the opposite direction. We would have to back up until we found a place suitable to pass (which could often be quite far!) and then continue on.

Cactus on a roof in Paucartambo, a famous folkloric town on the way to the park.

Ninamarca, pre-inca ruins (Lupaca).

We made it to the park - an amazing place half the size of Switzerland. It is divided into three sections - a narrow 'cultural' zone where people are allowed to live/farm in the jungle and tourists can visit - the place most people go when they visit Manu. A second area is a small 'reserve' zone with very limited tourism allowed, but no farming/fishing/hunting/etc. The third is an off limits scientific/research zone where only a very few individuals on official business are permitted. That area is where some of the uncontacted native tribes reside. It is a truly magnificent, wild, untouched place.

Our small group consisted of mbala, myself, EK, a couple from New Zealand/ Dubai, two Swiss guys, and a guy from Liverpool. It ended up being a really nice group to travel with!

The end of our first day in the forest brought us from city to cloud forest to river to the edge of the deep forest, where we stayed at a rustic lodge on a coca plantation. Our guide Rive (who was absolutely awesome) gave us a tour and explained a lot about the coca/cocaine business in Peru. It was fascinating to get a totally different perspective on it - that of the farmers trying to make a living from their crop, and the many natural benefits of the plant (when it is not being abused and perverted into powder).

Banana trucks along one of the last roads into the park area - lots of these semis were braving the narrow road to bring crops of fruit and lumber from the park to the city.

Madre de Dios river (mother of god) - we spent many hours traveling by boat, avoiding shallow areas and sunken trees.

When we moved from the Mother of God river onto the Manu river, headed into the reserve zone, our first greeting was by a huge red-tailed boa, probably about 12 feet long, floating along in the river.

Despite its massive size, Manu is not a popular tourist destination and apparently only about 1600-2000 people visit per year - only a fraction of that going into the reserve area (outside the cultural zone). There was only one other small group checked in at the ranger checkpoint when we arrived - and we pretty much had the feeling we were alone there.

Horned screamers, common along the river's edge.


Yellow-headed vultures. There were also lots of black and turkey vultures. I always forget how far many birds of prey range / migrate - many familiar birds were in the skies (ospreys, hawks, etc.)

Coca tea on the boat - helps to keep you going after a very long day of travel!

Woodpeckers, one of the most important birds in the rainforest. They start the holes that countless parrots use to make their nests.

I think that the most powerful and incredible experience for me, personally, was these jaguars. We stumbled upon a mating pair at the edge of the river, hanging out under a downed log in the early evening. The male was massive, and quite offended that we showed up to watch. Preferring his privacy, he stalked into the bushes - the female here pawed after him when he left.

Eventually, after a few of his plaintive calls, she followed suit.
Apparently only about 5-10% of visitors into the deep reserve zone see wild jaguars, so it was an incredible privilege to see them. It really took my breath away.

This picture (link) was taken by EK - http://www.coyotek.com/photos/albums/peru-100418/IMG_1528.JPG - it shows the male as he was taking off.

Large caiman in the river!

Wild blue and gold macaws!

The parrots were all quite a treat for me - we saw scarlet macaws, green-wings, blue and golds, a variety of amazons, pionus, brotegeris (grey-cheeked parakeets and kin), and conures.

After an awesome night walk in the forest, we had another early day where we went to a nearby lake (Salvador / Oxbow) to see the giant otters. They were quite huge, and they were circling the lake making unearthly, mournful cries. Rive told us this was not normal behavior for them at all - and also that three of their kits were missing from the group. He suspected that caimans might have gotten them.

Giant otters live in sociable family groups, with a lead female and often her kin (other mated pairs).


The otters weren't afraid of us at all (we were on a small catamaran paddled by hand) - they are used to researchers who have watched/studied them for many years. They came very close and went about their business as if we weren't there.

We also saw a lot of birds around the lake, including hoatzin (so awesome) and ani, cormorants and big parrot parties.

This was a tree which was being eaten from the inside out (hollow so you could walk through it) which smelled strongly of garlic.

You can see some of the famous 'clay licks' alongside the river - the big Tapir lick and macaw lick often seen on nature documentaries are actually privately owned outside of Manu itself. Parrots and other animals come there to feed on the nutrient rich soil.

Dr. Suess trees!

This picture does not do justice to the sheer size of this tree - and the incredible root system spanning out from it. All of the trees were really amazing.

Water spray from the boat.

(stealing this picture from EK!) - I will leave this as a 'to be continued' point - here I am posing with a wild tagua palm - called 'yarina' locally. I was so excited to get to see them in person, I have been working with the material (tagua nuts) for over twelve years now.

More pictures soon. :)


( 41 comments — Leave a comment )
May. 6th, 2010 03:09 am (UTC)
awesome pictures and what an incredible trip! of everything here though...the cactus on the roof...i keep looking back at it :p and yes yes post more!
May. 6th, 2010 03:15 am (UTC)
Thank you! I loved all the plants growing on the roofs - many of them were a veritable garden. I'm glad you don't mind the random non-noble travel photos as much as I do. :)
May. 6th, 2010 03:10 am (UTC)
Uh ghuh!

Special massage for you my friend.
May. 6th, 2010 03:14 am (UTC)
Special price for you, amigo! Kneepad rental included. ;)
May. 6th, 2010 03:17 am (UTC)
These are all so beautiful, but I wanted to say... the Inca milky way is so amazing!
May. 6th, 2010 03:38 am (UTC)
I agree - it was actually a huge canvas along a wall (I think about ten feet wide) and it was really spectacular. I'm an astronomy nerd so getting to see the stars in the southern hemisphere (and the milky way from the jungle with no light pollution in the way) was an awesome experience for me. :)
May. 6th, 2010 03:24 am (UTC)
Wow just, wow, seriously. I was excited after your last post for the pictures and...wow, man, what an amazing experience, all my words will just be redundant. Thanks for sharing it with us! Can't wait for more!
May. 6th, 2010 03:26 am (UTC)
Wow!I"m so jealous. Looks like you had a fabulous time. And such luck with the animals and birds you saw. I so need to get to \peru or South America for taht matter. \haven't gotten down there yet. Looking forward to more.
May. 6th, 2010 03:40 am (UTC)
Thank you! :) Our next big trip in the planning is hopefully going to be an African safari - I loved the photos you posted from your travels and getting the chance to spend so much time wildlife watching has me itching for more.
May. 6th, 2010 04:51 am (UTC)
I so highly recommend it!
May. 6th, 2010 03:44 am (UTC)
Oh wow, how were you able to plan such a trip into the deep jungle? I am so jealous (but happy for you!) that you were able to see wild jaguars and the giant river otters :3
May. 6th, 2010 03:54 am (UTC)
The travel agency that we went through is one of few that offers trips to Manu and even fewer that go into the reserve zone. They have some great information on their website: http://www.sastravelperumanu.com/
May. 6th, 2010 03:47 am (UTC)
Yaaaaaaaaaay! I've been looking forward to the ones that you two took. :3

I demand all your Rive photos! <33333
May. 6th, 2010 03:56 am (UTC)
I think Mbala had close to 2000 of them so he's very slowly going through them. We can zip up a bunch and swap pics. ^.^ I will send you all the Rive photos, beware that they might contain exploding rainbow hearts. Special photos just for you. ;)
May. 6th, 2010 04:00 am (UTC)
Special price for meeeee???

I'm about a third of the way through mine, too. What I'll probably end up doing for getting the raw photos to you is just burn them on a DVD and mail them your way. It's well over a gig or two of data, since there are close to 1000 and they're all 12 megapixel images.

By the way! Rive says hello! Do you have his email/facebook? His facebook email address is the same one that he gave the group, the yahoo one. Be aware that email sent to it apparently automatically posts to his facebook, so uh, if you don't want your conversations public, I can also give you the hotmail one. (Oops.)
May. 6th, 2010 03:49 am (UTC)
I am so envious of these experiences. Seeing those animals in the wild, seeing the southern sky... It's incredible.
May. 6th, 2010 03:52 am (UTC)
Thank you for sharing these! I can't wait for more photos!

I've totally seen the painting of Jesus eating the guinea pig (in a book, not in person!). I bet it was amazing in person ;)

The llama milky way is unreal and beautiful.

The jaguars are simply incredible! I know just how insanely rare it is to see one...and you saw two!!

That's really awesome you were able to see species you have as pets in the wild. I would love to see a wild ball python :>

May. 6th, 2010 03:59 am (UTC)
I was floored that we actually saw jaguars - it was in the back of my mind that if we could glimpse one it would make it the most amazing experience of my life and really make the trip beyond worthwhile, just that one thing - and stumbling upon that pair was just magical. I had just finished reading the book 'the Jaguar's Shadow' as well, where the author has spent many years in the field and researching all over central and some of south america and he's still never seen one in the wild - I feel so lucky! I think Manu is one of the few places you've got such a good chance of seeing them but still, it's really uncommon.

It was so bizarre to see the wild parrots - living with them it's hard to imagine them taking care of themselves and surviving how they do. It was awesome, though, to see them flying around and the big groups and interactions. So cool!

Many more photos on the way. :)
May. 6th, 2010 04:12 am (UTC)
Love your pics! I am so glad you got this opportunity and the experiences... look forward to more! Jaguar <3! The giant otters pics are my fav and the cool trees...and you look great! :)
May. 6th, 2010 04:19 am (UTC)
Looks absolutely amazing! Can't wait to see more pictures. :)
May. 6th, 2010 04:36 am (UTC)
Oh my lord. That looks like the most amazing and wonderful trip ever. And wild boas! Brilliant!
May. 6th, 2010 05:05 am (UTC)
I don't think I have the words to properly describe how AWESOME all of this is- as how it's also making my HYPED for Alaska on SO many levels. Looks as if everyone is having amazing adventures this month, and the stories we will share in Anthrocon will be ENDLESSSS!!
I'm so glad to have you back though... that bus-ride of DOOM made me YARG about a zillion times! XD

DUUUUDDEE cannot wait to see more! XD
May. 6th, 2010 06:26 am (UTC)
May. 6th, 2010 06:38 am (UTC)
Wow! Now I want to go xD
May. 6th, 2010 06:39 am (UTC)
WOW! Awesome story, great photos! The jaguars were especially amazing.
I was thinking I'd really like to have gone on a trip like that- or at least I was up 'til the point you mention being on the bus with one tire off the edge of the cliff and a thousand foot drop off below... not sure I'd have stayed on after that. :D
May. 6th, 2010 07:18 am (UTC)
Wow! What an experience that must have been! Seeing real Jaguars some place other then a zoo! I want to go there now, but I really doubt I'll ever be able to afford to go to another country, save MAYBE Canada in my lifetime at this rate :/.
May. 6th, 2010 08:29 am (UTC)
EEEEEEEEEEEEE cock of the rock!

Your pictures are amazing. That boa - freaky. We just have crocodiles in our lakes / estuaries / oceans thank you very much.

Oh and sea snakes. But they are leetle.
May. 6th, 2010 01:13 pm (UTC)
Thank you for sharing your photos, they are lovely!
May. 6th, 2010 01:52 pm (UTC)
Oh wow! Wonderful photos. The milky way piece is incredible and I have to agree with the'trufflehog that cactus on the roof with that vibrant blue paint is so charming!
May. 6th, 2010 02:40 pm (UTC)
These pictures are amazing! The art and architecture are wonderful, but all of pictures from the jungle are quite remarkable, as well. I can't wait to see what comes next. :)

I'm glad you had such a fulfilling trip. It looks like quite an experience!
May. 6th, 2010 04:38 pm (UTC)
Amazing stuff! thanks so much for sharing!
May. 6th, 2010 04:56 pm (UTC)
Lovely and wonderful. Thanks so much for sharing!
May. 6th, 2010 04:59 pm (UTC)
These are wonderful. Thanks for sharing! I can hardly wait for more.
May. 6th, 2010 05:22 pm (UTC)
Amazing photos.Thanks for sharing!
May. 6th, 2010 06:20 pm (UTC)
A trip to inspire jealousy! I know I would squee at the sight of the Boa on the river.
May. 6th, 2010 06:35 pm (UTC)

Amazing photos!
May. 6th, 2010 07:46 pm (UTC)
These are some incredible photographs! Peru is just so amazingly beautiful! This looks like it was the experience of a lifetime. Thank you for sharing these with us.

May. 7th, 2010 12:43 am (UTC)
Please don't take this personally....but you suck. ;) One of the places I want to go before I shuffle off this mortal coil is Machu Picchu. I want to go...badly.
May. 10th, 2010 10:50 pm (UTC)
Amazing pics
These pictures are AMAZING!
Jun. 2nd, 2010 08:30 pm (UTC)
I am simply blown away, what an adventure! I have a few thoughts, but little inclination for segue so I'll just do point form:

-The traffic in Peru sounds a lot like Thailand and Indonesia, which can be nail-biting. However, I never saw accidents when I was there either and I lived there for 8 months. Perhaps the driving style evokes more attention than in developed countries where the slower pace can cause one's attention to drift. Who knows? India though was pretty crazy and I saw a few horrific accidents there.

-I'm interested to know what the fried yucca was like. When I lived in Texas they were everywhere and not once did I hear about them being edible. I feel kind of cheated. =P

-Did you try some raw cocoa? I tried some in Indonesia right out of the pod and it coated my mouth in gooey blue.

-I assume Mbala took photos? Major props for managing to get so many great shots, including those of the boa, otters and jags.

-I am SO incredible happy you got to see some jaguars. Seeing a big cat in the wild is such an indescribable, intense experience and it seems like it had the same effect on you. You are extraordinarily lucky, especially given that you saw a mating pair. There really are no words to express the feeling or my joy to know you came away from Peru with such an experience.

-You are looking as gorgeous as ever.

I cannot wait for more!
Jun. 7th, 2010 01:34 am (UTC)
Yes, I think it must be trial-by-fire driving in a lot of these countries - in the U.S. it's way too easy to be distracted and to drive on long, fast, straight roads where you pretty much fall asleep from monotony. But I really was amazed at seeing not a single accident with how crazy everyone drove!

The fried yucca was quite tasty! It didn't have a lot of flavor - like most fried veggies it tasted mostly like the batter but I'd definitely eat it again.

We didn't try any raw cocoa - we had some very good powdered cocoa drinks but not from the pod. I'll have to look for some of that it sounds awesome!

Mbala did take most of the photos - I just last week bought a little point and shoot so now I'll be able to take pics too (since he's always using the big Nikon). :) I agree he gets great shots - and he has a lot of fun with it!

I agree about the cats - it seriously made my trip for me. I didn't expect to catch a glimpse of a jaguar, though I had it in the back of my heart as a great hope. It is something I will never forget!

And thank you, you make me blush! :) Looking forward to seeing you and hanging out at AC aaaagh soon!!
( 41 comments — Leave a comment )